When I was at high school, I was hopeless at Physics. Nothing could make me understand the equations or memorize the formulas.
Later on, when I took up photography, I found out that contrary to all logic (and most of my preferences) it is all Physics. Light angles, reflections, lenses, mirrors. What was not logic, was technical staff (I was never a tech-bimbo but I've never been a sys-admin either). So, willy-nilly, I learned about Physics and camera parts, how they work together and so on.
Later still, I discovered that being a photographer mean much more than randomly snapping at things around you.
So, I decided to compile a list of all the things a photographer has to do (that photographer is me, by the way) for all those who think taking a picture is a piece of cake and that sums up being a photographer.
You need to know:
some information about the thing: ideally the historical, cultural and anthropological background of the place - that includes having MORE THAN BASIC idea of archeology, architecture, warfare, social and cultural history, ethnic groups and the list goes on and on and on.
some social skills - to talk to people and make them pose for you or even to get some information from them.
camera equipment handling - this means knowing your gear inside out and being able to work with it with your eyes closed. Plus, you are expected to work and 'be fluent' in more than one brand and its specifics - I've had to use five different brands. You need to know about lenses, tripods, filters and so on and so forth.
posing
event shooting and how to behave at that time
lighting (studio lighting, I mean)
your rights and the laws about copyright, private property and photography of the respective country - so that you don't get into trouble.
some social networking skills (Facebook and Instagram at least) and SEO (search engine optimization) in order to promote your work.
sales and marketing skills to get yourself some clients.
htmlcodes - because at some point you'll need a website
blogging to tell your story to the world.
graphic design - because of the two above and the demands of your clients
post-processing (on more than one type software)
videography and video retouching
sound editing (because you never know)
licensing and copyright - so that you know which kind of license you lent whom, why and for how long. I mention it again, but it differs in different countries
printing, color spaces and different materials - this is separate because it is a whole domain in post-production
networking - you never know who will be useful for what
presentation skills - for obvious reasons such as portfolio display
first aid and basic survival skills - everything can happen on location and you need to keep yourself and the people around you safe
writing - you'll need to write at least the titles of your images and that is not always easy
basic self-defense - which includes a lot of common sense and self preservation instinct
basic meteorology - to know which weather causes what and how to handle that.
This list can go for a long time and I intend to update it. Point is, that unlike most people who get a single profession, specialize for it at university for some time and then go on working in that field without having to learn new things which have nothing to do with their domain, photographers have to do that all the time.
Photography means much more than just clicking a shutter.
I know it's been quite a while since I wrote but I've been up to quite a lot these days (and months) so I have an excuse.
Welcome to the newest part of Shoot Like a Pro - Advanced, Hope you'll like it.
I guess from time to time each one of us wants to take a few street shots - because we have some spare time but lack the money to travel somewhere far away or just because we want to try out our hand at street photography.
In its essence, street shooting is the easiest and the most difficult genre. It's difficult because you need to have a keen eye and to know when to shoot and when not to do it. It's easy because you document real life events and you just need to keep you eyes and ears open.
So far so good, but what are the basics?
I'm by no means an expert but here are a few tips and tricks - I'll use my most recent street shoot from my home town - Sofia, in winter as an illustration.
Rule 1 - know your geography
You simply CANNOT go out shooting without knowing what is where around town. This includes knowing not only where to go but where you should NEVER go. You see, photo equipment is too expensive to risk it for nothing. Besides, if you are a 5-feet-tall girl like me, you'll think twice before going out to the ghetto.
So step one is to see what is available and if you'll be able to access the place in a safe time of the day. The picture above is from a place called Lavov Most (literal translation for that would be Lion's bridge). It's a really picturesque place BUT in recent years it's a gathering place for illegal immigrants (called refugees by the West). It's absolutely NOT safe to be here after dark and I know it because I did my homework to check.
In the pic you see only ordinary people because it was too cold (-15 Celsius) for anyone else to go out wait for whatever.
The location check includes knowing when to be around places and when you'll get the best lighting and/or subjects.
This a picture of the famous mosque in Sofia (built by the architect Sinan back in the 16th century and still currently in use.) - and it's NOT a Friday - so I can roam around and take as many pictures as I want.
Rule 2 - try to stay unnoticed
As you can see from the pictures above - when heading out for street shots, I include people in the frame. Key to that is to AVOID getting noticed. I understand that it's not an easy task if you carry a two-kilo black camera BUT in Eastern Europe people hate being photographed without permission. You can get into a big trouble if they notice you and you keep taking pictures without their consent, you can end up in the police station.
The picture above shows a woman staring at the flag in front of the monument of the unknown (nameless) warrior (the brick building is an ancient basilica). I caught this woman by pure accident, don't even know if she was specifically looking at the flag but the image looks really dramatic. So if I had asked her to pose for me, she may have send me to hell (as some people would) or posed those artificial 'duck-face' poses I totally hate. So instead, I took a picture that doesn't show her face (which means that I can use it without her written consent, at least for non-commercial purposes).
When people don't notice you are there, you can capture a lot more candid moments than if you go around and try them to pose for you. There are photographers that can approach anyone and get the perfect posed shot - well, I'm not exactly one of them. I prefer to play the paparazzi game.
Rule 3 - Watch out for traffic
It may seem something obvious but believe me, when you start shooting, you easily forget that there other people (or cars) around you.
This building used to be the palace of the Tsar but in 1944 it was taken over by the Communists. It was built by an Austrian architect and used to have an ornate fence and gate - just like those of Belvedere palace in Vienna. The fence used to be cutting in two the street you see in the foreground but it was demolished in 1945. They had plans to destroy the building too but firstly they ran out of money and secondly some brainy people thought that it won't be a good idea. Now the building is an art gallery but nothing shows from the royal period - the place was completely robbed - the only evidence are the stone fireplaces (which are still there because they couldn't remove them).
It has a really interesting story and is one of the most photogenic places in Sofia. Only problem is that it;s located on one of the busiest boulevards in the city.
So when it comes to traffic - or anything else while you're out shooting YOUR SAFETY IS ALWAYS FIRST! No image is worth getting yourself in danger! First ensure that all other vehicles can SEE where you are and LOOK AROUND BEFORE you try to make a hasty move.
For this shot I stood on the outside line of the boulevard and had to wait for the right moment when cars were on red light :) If you have to stand somewhere on the road - STICK TO THE SIDES OR STAY IN THE MIDDLE.
DON'T MOVE BACK AND FORTH, YOU CAN GET HIT!
Rule 4 - learn a bit about the place you are shooting
Street photography is often about telling a story so take some time to learn a bit about it. Each city has enthusiasts that write about its history, you'll just have to check things out.
For example, this place (on the pic above) has a really dramatic story - my grandfather was a witness to most of it:
The place is called the triangle of power in Sofia - the building of the Presidency (to the left) and the Council of Ministers (center and left). This place has a long standing controversial history. When Communism came in 1944, the new authorities were dead set on establishing a new order. So they demolished a whole district - the so-called Targovska street (where all trade and artistry in old Sofia happened) and the other lanes around it.
In the 1950s, when they started digging the foundations for these buildings, they reached the Roman stratum of Serdica - namely the palace of Konstantine the Great. And they poured concrete on it. Because no one can be greater than the Soviet Union. Now these stand as a reminder of a totalitarian regime and of stupidity.
If you don't know what was destroyed to get these created, you might even marvel at them. So if you want to show the idiocy of the people who created the ensemble you'll need to know the story behind the place.
Rule 5 - marvel at the architecture
Street photography is often about the architecture around is. We just can't escape that - we are surrounded by it so why not trying to capture it the best way possible.
The building you see is the National Theatre Ivan Vasov which dates back to the end of the 19th century and is one of the most beautiful buildings in Sofia.
So don't try to shoot people only - keep your eyes open for the things around you.
Rule 6 - dress according to the season!!!
I should have said this in the beginning but I thought it's too obvious. Anyway, I must add this.
ALWAYS DRESS ACCORDING TO SEASON - during this photo shoot I had to wade through knee-deep snow, endured a blizzard (but I was already out so I decided to keep moving) and my hands almost froze on the camera (because, I repeat, it was -15 degrees Celsius). So I was lucky i had sturdy boots and warm coat and gloves, and a hat.
You never know what might happen so it's better to take an extra item (like spare gloves or an umbrella) instead of getting back home soaking wet or ice cube frozen :) Big cities have a few disadvantages - it takes a long time to travel in them and the weather may vary, so you can't know for sure what the weather would be at the other end.
Rule 7 - be quick with the camera
The picture above - of the guy with the red coat - is a great example for something other than warm clothes in winter. I saw him for a few moments right as he was walking towards me. It was freezing cold and to top it all - the wind was blowing snow in my face. So I was kinda reluctant to shoot but then when he came closer I decided that I just CANNOT MISS THAT SHOT. It turned out to be one of the best from the series. so I'm glad I took it. I was also lucky that it was so cold so I didn't get noticed.
So keep your eyes open and shoot everything you can - better to come home with more images than you need than to miss a one-timer.
Rule 8 - general photography rules apply here as well
If you are into street photography, you are probably familiar with all the general photography rules - like the Rule of Thirds and the like. BUT when we are out shooting and all we see is people, we tend to forget that the same basic rules can be applied here.
As you can see above, the lead-in lines help create a sense of depth and scale.
So don't underestimate the rules :) They are old but gold :)
Conclusion
I think I said it all - so all I can say here is "Good luck" and happy snapping.
If you think I missed something - write to me and I'll include it in a second post :)
Meteora... Does the name ring a bell??? For most people it doesn't but this jewel of Greece has to get known to more people and in this travelogue I'm gonna tell you about it.
It's Easter time so it's only natural that I will be talking about a Holy place - a few are as spectacular as Meteora!
The story starts the previous day - as usual - when we arrived at Kalabaka... OK, you have no idea where that is...
Where is Meteora?
Meteora is situated in central Greece - in Thessaly, if that rings a bell. The nearest big town is Trikala and the nearest small town is Kalabaka (transliterated as KalaMbaka in Greek roadsigns but you read only the B sound because the orthographic combination of the MP letters is read as B in Greek). Anyway, Meteora is in the middle of the continental part of the country, near one of the highest mountain ranges - Pindus Mountains.
Here is where Meteora is on the map.
Image taken from http://www.greeceathensaegeaninfo.com/destinations_greece_meteora_kalambaka.htm
How to get there?
There are - as always - two ways. Both, however, involve having a car. There are great motorways up till Trikala and then there is a good first-class road that leads to Kalabaka. Meteora is roughly 350 km away. If you come from some other country - like Bulgaria - it is less (because it is closer to the border.) In any case, you'll need a car to go round the place. Once you get there, there are some hiking tours and loads of things to do but still - if you ask me - don't underestimate the car.
The road to Kalabaka - notice the lights - they go on for kilometers
What is Meteora?
In Greek, Μετέωρα means "middle of the sky", "suspended in the air" or "in the heavens above". The Greeks gave that name to the place because of its unique look. The name stands for a unique rock formation in the plain of Thessaly. The sandstone pillars, as they are called, show that at some point of its geological history, that part of Greece was below sea level.
Some of the stone pillars
The same idea, "suspended in the air" or "in the heavens above", goes for the complex of monasteries build on top of some of the pillars. They look like birds nests from below and really, you start wondering how did they make them in the first place. The answer is - with baskets and a lot of ropes. Everything that is up the stone pillars now was brought up in a basket - brick by brick, stone by stone.
The ropes that lead up to Agios Nikolaos monastery - now used to hoard in supplies
The place looks surreal and no wonder that it was a favorite place of hermit monks as early as the 9th century AD. They lived in caves inside the pillars and the predecessors of the monasteries were built in the 12th century. The biggest monastery of the complex, The Great Meteoron, was founded in the 14th century. At that time, the Ottoman Turks invaded the area so the rock pillars proved to be the ideal hiding place for the hermit monks. They built more than 20 monasteries up the pillars but only 6 remain today.
The monasteries
The six monasteries of Meteora are spectacular to see but you cannot visit them all in one day. The reason? They are not open all at once. Meteora has a website where you can check what's the current situation but here it is once more (if you are lazy enough not to click on the link above) THIS IS THE SUMMER TIMETABLE (April 1st to October 31st) (there is a winter one as well, so check out the webiste) St. Stephen's Nunnery Visiting Hours: 9:00 to 13:30 and 15:30 to 17:30. The monastery stays closed on Mondays. Great Meteoron Monastery Visiting Hours: 09:00 to 17:00. The monastery stays closed on Tuesdays. Roussanou Monastery Visiting Hours: 09:00 to 17:45. The monastery stays closed on Wednesdays. Holy Trinity Monastery Visiting Hours: 09:00 to 17:00. The monastery stays closed on Thursdays. Varlaam Monastery Visiting Hours: 09:00 to 16:00. The monastery stays closed on Fridays. St. Nikolaos Anapafsas Monastery Visiting Hours: 09:00 to 15:30. The monastery stays closed on Fridays. From the list above - you have 2 monasteries closed on Friday and one each other day of the work week. If you go on Saturday and Sunday - you will see the monasteries open but you will not be the only visitor. Meteora is very popular in Greece (and virtually unknown outside it) so expect a lot of tourists. Moreover, Meteora is part of UNESCO World Heritage list so there are even more tourists. Hint: they usually visit places at noon, so they are relatively easy to avoid.
Agios Nikolaos church from the outside - while you are forbidden to take pictures inside the church, you can do so outside
What I highly recommend is getting a place to sleep in Kastraki (the nearest village to the monasteries) or Kalabaka (the bigger town) and then spend two days there and see all monasteries. Thus, if the weather is bad you have one more day to sort things out. All monasteries are currently in use so you are NOT entering a museum - keep in mind that photos INSIDE THE CHURCH are STRICTLY FORBIDDEN and you should be dressed properly - some info for the ladies - even if you wear jeans and not shorts, you'll be given a skirt - Greek Orthodox Church rule - if you are a female, you enter church in a skirt. No exceptions (only little girls are allowed to enter in jeans and the rest). For more information on how to behave in Orthodox churches and monasteries, see this post: Rila Monastery - the biggest monastery on the Balkan peninsula part 1 Or - general rules for visiting Eastern Orthodox churches and monasteries
Now that you have been warned, you know what to expect inside.
My visit to the monasteries
Map of the monasteries - we started from Agios Nikolaos - the closet to Kastraki
Image taken from http://pravoslavieto.com/poklonnichestvo/gr/meteora/index.htm
Meteora had been on the list for quite some time but, since it is relatively close to Bulgaria, I always left it for some later time. When I finally included it in the list, it was a tough call. Last item on the sightseeing list, and even that - we had to cross half of continental Greece (traveling from Delfi) and arrive in Kastraki in the evening. Then, the next morning up till noon was reserved for visiting some of the monasteries and then - off we go to Bulgaria. As you can see, visiting all the monasteries, even if we had actually come during the weekend, was out of the question. I had been to Meteora when I was 11 and then we visited St. Stephen's Nunnery, Great Meteoron Monastery, and one more which escapes my mind right now. Thus, I think that I can give you some additional info about each of the monasteries:
St. Stephen's Nunnery Biggest nunnery at Meteora - the other nunnery, Roussanouq is much smaller. The monastery is close to the Great Meteoron and it is easily accessible by car but when I was 11 they didn't let people go further than the yard. You can visit the church of course, but not much more. I don't remember it having any view - or if it had, we didn't see it. Great Meteoron Monastery
Agios Nikolaos, Varlaam and probably the Great Meteoron (it is somewhat behind Varlaam so I'm not sure which one is visible in the picture). All viewed from Rousssanou
The biggest monastery at Meteora and if you ask me, the one touched by commercial industry the most. It has abig museum of Meteora and its surroundings and overall - since it is really big - you get the impression that you are really visiting a museum and not a real monastery. On the other hand, if it is open for visitors, you should definitely see it since it's the only place where you can see a monastery from the inside - some of the living quarters of the monks and common halls included. Besides, in the museum you'll find out more about the history of the place - which I am too lazy to write in here are well. All other monasteries in the complex are much smaller and the living quarters are closed to visitors. The view is great - even from the parking lots. Oh, I forgot to mention - all monasteries have parkings around them - not big but enough - the road that goes around the monasteries is neither narrow nor wide so keep traffic in mind when you park (and keep tourist buses in mind!!!)
Roussanou Monastery
Small nunnery with amazing view to Great Meteoron, St.Stephen's nunnery and Varlaaam. You get up there by stairs (not too many don't worry) and the monastery itself is a small and cozy one. In all monasteries you can buy some souvenirs (usually handmade and sold by the monks and nuns - the older don't speak much English but they will sort you out) but the biggest variety is, as usual, in the Great Meteoron. Roussanou is deffinitely worth the visit and if you visit some of the three above (Great Meteoron, St.Stephen's nunnery and Varlaaam) try to capture Rousssanou from there - it is a spectacular view - a small monastery at the summit of a stone pillar.
The garden at Roussanou - the monastery can be shot from Varlaam or the Great Meteoron - it is impossible to take a pictutre of it from the road because it's not visible
Varlaam Monastery
Varlaaam as seen from Roussanou
It's in the middle of the rock formations so from it you have view to all other monasteries. It is relatively big and quite visited by tourists - mainly because of the amazing view. Definitely a must-see if it is open! Even if it is not - stop at the parking and take a picture of it - you won't regret it.
Varlaaam from the road - couldn't stop there so I had to shoot while the car was moving
St. Nikolaos Anapafsas Monastery
Agios Nikolaos from the road - and if you take a closer look - through the car window
The smallest of all monasteries. If you ask me, this one is the most authentic one. By far, it is on the lowest stone pillar and the view towards Kalabaka and Kastraki is great. Agios Nikolaos is the closest to Kastraki. It has a small parking and usually big tourist groups bypass it. It is really small (I mean REALLY) and you can get up there by climbing quite a lot of stairs but the climb is worth it. Agios Nikolaos is the only monastery where you can still see the old basket-and-rope structures that were used to build Meteora and to bring up supplies.
Well, it's a bit modernized, bu still. You can get the overall impression, especially if you imagine that happening with one of the higher pillars. Holy Trinity Monastery
Haven't been there yet, can't tell much about it. I think it is a nunnery but I'm not sure... No matter which monastery you visit, take a time and buy a candle - thus you respect the place and use the time to say a prayer or two - no need to be a devout Christian to do so - just wish for good health and happiness, that's enough. Advice - choose a place with a view - Meteora is amazing at sunset and at night! Kalabaka or better still - Kastraki, are the wisest choices, if you ask me. After saying all that, here is a bit of advice:
Clothing
In that part of Greece, it is generally hot in the summer. That goes only for the day, at night it can be rather chilly so - bring a jacket (you'll thank me later). Meteora is quite rainy and misty in spring and autumn so keep that in mind. Jeans and a T-shirt would do. Remember what I said here about how to dress in Orthodox churches and monasteries. I know I'm getting kind of boring with that but if you visit such a place, you should show some respect.
Some of the stairs towards Agios Nikolaos
Bring comfortable shoes (I mean really COMFORTABLE) - sneakers would do.
It is quite windy up on the pillars so if you bring a hat - hold on to it.
Camera gear, settings and other tips
There is no way of going to Meteora and returning without nice pictures. The place is just so amazing that you will capture at least a few things that are stunning. Here are a few things to keep in mind.
View from Agios Nikolaos - used the wide angle lens for that
Gear to take
There would be climbing so don't take all your lenses with you. You'll need:
a wide angle (10-18mm or less)
a general non-telephoto (17/18-55mm will do, if you have something better - bring it on)
a tripod!!! (priceless for shooting sunset and night pics)
Meteora at night - exposure - around 5 minutes. That's why you need a tripod!
something to clean up your gear - you have no idea how messy it gets when wind starts blowing
a lot of memory cards - especially if you shoot in RAW format
remote trigger - for the night and sunset shots (if you have a compact camera, you'll only need a portable tripod and will have to use the )
anything else would help but it is not mandatory
Camera settings
To get amazing pictures you'll need a closed big f/ number (around and above f/8 - I recommend f/16)
Keep shutter speed at at least 1/200 sec. - that way camera shake will not be a problem. Keep an eye on the light and avoid shooting when the sun shines in your lens - unless you have a DSLR and shoot in RAW format you won't be able to see much in them. Keep ISO as low as possible (you'll thank me later about that).
Light
Meteora is amazing to shoot at the Golden Hour ( around 10 am and around 4 or 5 pm in summer). Morning is good but only for some locations, same goes for evening. Keep in mind that there will be areas that are bright in the sunlight and others that will be in the shadow - that goes especially for the summits of the stone pillars. The only way to get them well-lit is to visit Meteora when it rains or it is about to rain.
Meteora in the mprning as seen from Kastraki - as you can see - the light comes from behind the pillars
Traveling info
Meteora is in Central Greece so people there are different from what you will encounter in Peloponnese or Crete. The traditional hospitality is still there but people tend to be less 'open' and more like the people in Bulgaria (which means - frowning and not exactly hospitable). This is a personal opinion - which may be due to the fact that I visited the place in a cold and rainy evening in September. Still, the food is great (as anywhere in Greece) - try the local wine and the meat - you'll see few types of fish here but the rest is delicious.
Bring in a torch - streets of Kastraki do have some lamps but they are not enough - it all depends on where you'e staying. Bring in an umbrella as well - you never know when it's going to rain there.
Having said all that, I wish you a wonderful Easter and can't wait so see your pictures from Meteora!
This is just a sneak peek of what I've been up to lately - hunting the perfect landscape shot. Belogradchik rock formations are one of the most spectacular places in Bulgaria - really, the view is amazing! Problem is that the light can be quite a false friend there. So in the following excerpt you'll read about my ordeals with the lighting there.
I promise to write a full-length travelogue and tell you all about it some time soon.
About the place:
Belogradchik rocks in the late afternoon. It is a sandstone rock formation in the Northwest of Bulgaria. In Roman times, the rocks housed a garrison that used to guard the border and it had been so up till 19th century. Now the main part of the formation (from which I took the picture - I promise to post a shot of that soon) is still called Kaleto (the word for 'fortress in Turkish'). The rocks are to be included in UNESCO world heritage sites - there is a procedure under way.
Entrance:
You cannot stay inside after 6 pm - the fortress gets locked so there is no way to capture a sunset inside without getting a permit first. Same goes for sunrise. It's full of people - it's a very popular tourist destination, after all - so you don't have the time for a tripod or some tweaky long exposure tricks. Besides, the top of the formation is not that big so you don't have much space to move around either.
This is my second visit to the place. You have no idea how difficult it is to get the right light there - even if you go at noon, the rocks would be black against the sky. So I went in the late afternoon and made sure it's a cloudy day. Still the result is not ideal so I guess I'll have to go a third time :) This time I'll make sure that the weather forecast says it's going to rain. Entrance fee is 6 leva, last group goes in at 7pm (you can even listen to a tour guide but you have to pay some extra money - if you don't - as I did - been there too many times to listen to one and the same story all over again, besides - it was the pictures I was concentrated on - you can roam around freely and enjoy the view.). Outside the fortress you can buy some amazing local wine - totally recommend it!
Technicalities:
I used a wide angle lens (10 -18mm) and still had problems with filling the scenery into the frame. Besides, I could only see the images through the viefinder - the sun was shining in the LCD so I shot on autopilot - taking as many pictures as I could. Of course - since I knew that I'll need post processing - I used RAW format.
This particular post would describe a disappointment of mine. I watched the Top Gear episode about the Transfagarasan highway and nagged to go there. So we went but we had missed something - the weather was not in our favor. It rained all the way and to make matters worse - there was a 'nice' fog that combined with the torrential rain made taking decent pictures impossible... You'll see what I mean later on.
But first things first. In case you want to skip ahead to the story: Part 2
Here is the video I made - just to give you an impression of what I am talking about:
What is Transfagarasan?
You, especially if you are not Romanian, probably have no idea that the place exists. So the logical question is - what on Earth is this place??? Ok, it is in the Carpathian mountains and obviously is a mountain pass. Nothing comes to mind? Ok, let me show you a map:
Image taken from mitteleuropa.x10.mx
In case you don't know where Romania is - I'll have to ask you to consult with Wikipedia. If you din't get much of the map - here we go - the big brown thing in the middle is the Carpathian mountains - the longest mountain in Romania (I think it is the highest as well). The red rectangle shows what I am talking about - where is the Transgarasan highway.
Here is a road map of Romania to get an impression of their road system:
Image taken from mitteleuropa.x10.mx
To be even more precise - here is a map of the mountain pass itself:
Image taken from https://guideandtravel.wordpress.com/tag/dn7c/
The road is known in Romania as National Road 7C - that means it is a wide road in good condition that is the shortcut from Curtea de Arges (down on the map) and Sibiu (up left). The name comes from the mountain of Fagaras and means "through Fagaras". There is also a town with the same name (up right on the map).
Here is a quote from Wikipedia explaining things in short:
The Transfăgărășan (trans (over, across) + Făgăraș) or DN7C is a mountain paved road crossing the southern section of the Carpathian Mountains. It has national-road ranking and it is the second-highest paved road in Romania after Transalpina. The road starts near the village of Bascov, located near the city of Pitesti, ending on the crossroad between DN1 and Sibiu. Also known as Ceaușescu's Folly, it was built as a strategic military route that stretches 90 km with twists and turns that run north to south across the tallest sections of the Southern Carpathians, between the highest peaks in the country, Moldoveanu, and the second highest, Negoiu. The road connects the historic regions of Transylvania and Wallachia, and the cities of Sibiu and Pitești.
History
I'll try to be short here - the road is called Ceaușescu's Folly with a good reason. See, the dictator decided that he should have a quick access between Transylvania and Wallachia which is not along a river valley (so more difficult to attack - don't ask - military strategy and it's too long to explain) AND he decided to do something grander than the longer and higher Transalpina (see map below).
Image taken from https://guideandtravel.wordpress.com/tag/dn7c/
So in 1970 the guy ordered the army to build his masterpiece. Problem 1 - they were on a schedule (quite tight one, mind you). Problem 2 - the terrain was very difficult to civilize and there were a lot of rocks to be blown up in order for the road to be built. Problem 3 - Ceaușescu, as any other dictator, for that matter, was paranoid against Soviet invasion in Romania so safety measures were not a big concern, neither were casualties. Wikipedia will give us the details:
Built mainly by military forces, the road had both a high financial and human cost. Work was carried out in an alpine climate, at an elevation of 2000 meters, using junior military personnel who were untrained in blasting techniques. Many non-commissioned officers (NCOs), foremen, and soldiers died due to hazardous working conditions. Roughly six million kilograms of dynamite were used on the northern face, and official records state that about 40 soldiers lost their lives in building accidents. These numbers are likely to be under–estimations due to Communist propaganda touting "greatest care for men."The government could not admit the loss of so many lives caused by the disregard for labor protection rules.To this day, the exact number of lives lost is not known, yet survivors estimate the number to be in the hundreds.
As you can see for yourself, Ceaușescu was not a very likable guy - probably one of the reasons he didn't die of old age in his bed (which, however, is not the topic of my post).
The Transfăgărășan highway
OK, here we come to the real thing - the highway itself. There are a few things to sort out first.
The name - I will keep spelling it without the diacritics (you know, those strange looking things above and below the letters in the name) because Romanian is full of them and I can't spell them all right. The actual pronunciation of the name is 'Transfagarashan' with a 'sh' sound even though throughout the post you will see it written (for convenience's sake) as Transfagarasan (with an s letter).
The length - Wikipedia keeps saying that it is only 90 kilometers long but according to a road sign I took picture of while we were there - it is 152 kilometers. Don't get hysterical - only 50 or so of those are like the picture in the heading - serpentines and one curve ending in another. About that I'll talk later. Here is a picture of the road sign itself:
Here the road sign says that the pass is open
The speed limit- in the video clip I have posted below you'll get the impression that it is an easy and quick drive. Truth is that the advisable AVERAGE speed should NOT EXCEED 40 kilometers per hour. If you think you can drive at a higher speed - you can - the road is a wide one and in a quite good condition in most places. But I think the views and the curves as well as the elevation on more than 2000 meters will quickly discourage you if common sense doesn't.
The duration of the journey - average duration is 4 to 5 hours depending on traffic, weather conditions and well, how long you will be staying at the viewpoints. It is a busy road and Romanians do use it. To the natives of Sibiu it is the shortest way to get to Pitesti (another big city on the other side of the mountain). Romanians tend to drive dangerously so be on the alert.
The weather- on most pictures of the Transfagarasan you'll see nice warm sun and fluffy white clouds and/or blue sky. Don't get fooled by that - it is COLD and by saying cold, I mean cold. Unless you are a polar bear, temperatures between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius in September would be cold or at least, chilly.
What to do BEFORE you go there?
- Check the weather forecast - if you don't want to see what I saw (you'll see the pictures and the clip later in the post) check and double check the forecast for Curtea de Arges (on the one side of the mountain) and Sibiu (on the other). You'll thank me for that, trust me. If it shows rain/showers/ thunderstorm in ANY OF THE TWO just DO NOT go. Chances are that if it rains on either side of the mountain, it would rain in it, too. It showed showers and we were rewarded by a torrential rain up there. Go in the rain ONLY if you have a long driving career and considerable amount of skills!
- Check if the pass is open - since it is a popular tourist attraction in Romania, Transfagarasan has its own website and there you can see whether it is open or no. Here is the website:
Transfagarasan is generally closed between October/November and April/May the next year. However they close the serpentines (the top 50 kilometers with the scenic curves) when the weather is bad and the moment the first snow falls because of avalanche danger. Each year the period varies, so do your homework.
- Check the car systems AND THE BRAKES!!! - DON'T EVEN THINK OF GOING THERE IF THERE IS SOMETHING WRONG WITH THE CAR. Transfagarasan is one of the most dangerous roads in Europe and the most common cause for death is a problem in the brakes of the car or somewhere else. Most of the high curves are not fenced so there is nothing that would stop your fall down the 1000 meter abyss. It is a beautiful place but caution first. GO ONLY IF YOUR CAR IS 100% WORKING!
- Think twice if your car is fit to do it - If you drive a sports car, even though Romanian roads are amazingly good, you should think twice before using it on the Transfagarasan highway - it will perform well but for that journey (personal opinion) you'll need something higher (such as an SUV or a high hedge-back) because the viewpoints are 20 to even 30 centimeters BELOW the level of the road. So if your car is flat on the road imagine what would happen if you try to pull over and enjoy the landscape. The level difference is due to the abundance of water up there - they did it as a drainage of some sort.
- Find a decent hotel - There are a few very nice places along the road which are in the lower parts of the pass and have amazing view but since Romanians love them too, you should book a hotel first. Don't count on coming and finding something on the spur of the moment! Also BEWARE OF WEDDINGS! if you happen to be in the area on a Saturday you have a very high chance of encountering a wedding. That in itself is not a problem and even seeing the bride brings good luck but that also means that you'll be an intruder in the restaurant - it is their day so they don't want tourists around. Also weddings on the Balkans mean a lot (I really mean A LOT ) of noise - generally local music blasting your eardrums out up till 4 or 5 AM. So if there is a wedding in your hotel (which unfortunately, you can't know in advance), you'll probably have to eat somewhere else.
Since it is quite a lengthy post - I'll tell you the story and show you the pictures in a follow-up :)
